We shared the anchorage with the Apple boat…which was less awesome than you might expect.
Originally written on February 24, 2012
The first time we anchored at Ensenada Grande it was purely
by accident, since our transmission broke down just a mile or so from this lovely
anchorage. But, we had such a nice time (in spite of our busted engine) that we
decided to return, which is truly a testament to the specialness of this place.
Our second time around had its moments as well. Here’s the skinny.
Our teeny weeny boat in the distance. For some reason I can’t seem to keep the camera straight against the horizon.
Shortly after we dropped anchor, as we were preparing to
make dinner, a couple of guys from a charter boat next door came by to inquire
about the weather forecast. We chatted for awhile and conspired to share dinner
– we would supply lasagna and they would supply appetizers, salad, some
additional pasta, booze and desert (SMORES!). It was really nice visiting with some
friendly non-cruisers (three couples) around our age and talking about non-boat
things for a significant portion of the evening. They were all incredibly clean,
attractive and fashionable, like they had just stepped out of a JCrew
catalogue, while Jeff and I (despite having just left civilization) looked
disheveled in comparison. Their charter boat was colossal and immaculate, with four
separate sleeping quarters, a leather wraparound couch that could comfortably
fit eight and a galley that would make any girl swoon. Full blown boat envy. After
I exclaimed (at some point) how much I miss girl time, the ladies onboard were
kind enough to pass along their newest issue of Glamour magazine for me to
enjoy. Now I can stay fashionably relevant while aboard Serenity. Turns out
stripes and neon are in this season – I’m totally covered.
This is why the anchorages are primarily on the west side of the island.
The next day I came down with something icky, most likely
because I was sailing barefoot in crappy weather again (you would think I’d
learn my lesson…but putting on socks and shoes is so much work). I slept all
day while Jeff kept himself entertained with fishing, podcasts, cleaning and
who knows what else. He confirmed after my day of respite that he wouldn’t want
to do this trip alone (nice to know).
Unfortunately, the wind kept the anchorage too cool to swim
(sans wetsuits anyways), so we turned to some land based adventures, ie hiking.
It was a nice hike, less scrambling than our “hike” at Mezteno, and we were
rewarded with a great view of the east side of the island.
On our last day in the anchorage we were in the company of several
mega-yachts, including the yacht that was commissioned by Steve Jobs. The rich
people zooming around the anchorage on jet skis a mere 4 meters from our boat (with
their wake rocking Serenity like a cradle from hell), couldn’t understand why
the guy with the crazy afro was asking/telling them to knock it off. I’m sure
they don’t feel much of anything in the way of choppy water from the bowels of
their floating mansions. We on the other hand, are much more exposed to the motion.
When the weather calmed on Sunday, we were ready to pull up
stakes and head to Isla San Francisco before the next blow made itself at home.
You can see Isla San Francisco (our next stop) in the distance.