Log Book
- Port of departure: Golfito, Costa Rica
- Departure date and time: Thursday, December 19, 2013 at 10:30am
- Port of arrival: Isla Gobernadora, Panama
- Arrival date and time: Saturday, December 22, 2013 at 7:00om
- Total travel time: 2 days and 8.5 hours (56.5 hours)
- Miles traveled: 160 nm
- Engine hours: 1191.7 begin – 1193.0 end – 1.3 hours
- Fuel consumption: 34.5 begin – 34 end – 0.5 gallons used
- Fuel economy: 320 mpg (wahoo!)
- Tides and currents: We left Golfito at the end of an outgoing tide and had an incoming tide working against us for most of the afternoon and evening (though the effects were not pronounced). We reached Isla Gobernador at the end of an incoming tide. We started to experience some effects from currents as we approached the islands and transited the canals. The effects seem to be localized.
- Weather: The forecast predicted 6-10 knots from the S/SW in the afternoon and evening, switching to 2-6 knots from the N/NE or N/NW winds in the middle of the night.
I’m gonna go ahead and call this one of our best passages to date. I think Jeff would likely agree with me. Yes, there was rain, but it was short lived and I could tell we didn’t get the worst of it. Yes, there was wind on our nose, but it was consistently 10-13 knots from a good angle, which is totally comfortable and manageable. What made this particular passage so enjoyable was the (semi-)consistent wind, tame seas, and the fact that we got to sail for hours and hours and hours on end with the wind at our back (we haven’t really had this since the trip from Topolobampo, and those seas were far from tame). The wind wasn’t always strong (ranging between 8-13 knots), but we spent relatively little time waiting for wind. Western Panama is also incredibly beautiful, which certainly adds to the magic of a passage.
We motored out of the Golfito channel at about 10:30am. The port captain informed us that our zarpe (permission to leave) was valid until 6:00am (they only give you 12 hours of “wiggle room”), meaning we needed to be out of sight by 6:00am, but we still had water jugs to fill and people to say goodbye to. I’m of the mind that sailing boats should get a minimum of 48 hours of “wiggle room.” I can’t imagine traveling without a motor and trying to abide by these bureaucratic rules. Once we cleared the channel we raised our sails in about 4 knots of wind from the S/SE and slowly crossed Golfo Dolce.
At 12:00pm, almost on the dot, 10-15 knots of wind funneled into the Gulf from the S/SW and we were sailing along at 4-5 knots. We crossed the Gulf to get a good angle on the conspicuous point that separates Costa Rica and Panama. The wind remained steady and our heading remained good on our tack towards Panama.
Shortly after nightfall the hills on our port side were completely obscured by rain clouds, meaning that rain was most definitely coming for us. Jeff was asleep getting ready for his upcoming 6 hour shift (remember what I said about it always raining on my shift?). I hid underneath our little awning to escape the wet, only emerging to adjust the sails. The NE wind that accompanied the rain required me to change course and sails a couple of times until the steady SW wind resumed. Behind me the Gulf remained shrouded in rain clouds for the next hour or two. Ahead of me the sky was clear and cloudless and bright. Panama, here we come!
The next two days were perfect with wind at our back, clear skies ahead and a sense of calm contentment aboard Serenity. We passed by Islas Ladrones and transited the Canal de Afuera en route to Golfo Montijo. So many lovely islands. l can tell we’re going to like it here. The going was slow, it took us longer than expected, but we were enjoying every minute.
We decided to anchor on the NE side of Isla Gobernadora given the direction of the wind and waves. High tide wasn’t until 6:00pm the following day, giving us plenty of time to get up Rio San Pedro to Puerto Mutis on the rising tide. We approached Isla Gobernadora after nightfall on an incoming tide and as we rounded the island the wind died and the current started to push gently against us. No longer making forward progress we doused the sails and found a good anchoring spot (in about 25 feet) while under motor.