Log book
- Port of departure: Isla Santa Catalina, Panama
- Departure date and time: Friday, February 14, 2014 at 10:45am
- Port of arrival: Puerto Mutis, Panama
- Arrival date and time: Saturday, February 15, 2014 at 12:00am
- Total travel time: 13.25 hours (10 hours in motion)
- Miles traveled: 29.3 nm
- Engine hours: 1216.6 begin – 1216.8 end – 0.2 hours
- Fuel consumption: 32.7 begin – 32.6 end – 0.1 gallons used
- Fuel economy: ∞ mpg
- Tides and currents: The flood started at about 9:40am and carried us into the Golfo de Montijo and up Rio San Pedro until about 4:00pm, when it started working against us. It shifted in our favor again at about 10:00pm. Full moon! 10 foot tidal swings!
- Weather: The forecast predicted winds from the N/NE from 0-6 knots during the day, switching to a S/SW wind in the late afternoon between 2-6 knots.
It inevitably comes to pass that we’re running low on some necessity, this time our propane had run out and our water was getting low (and stinky). Consequently we decided to brave the trip up Rio San Pedro to Puerto Mutis where we knew we could easily fill up on all sorts of goodies. The trouble, of course, is getting up a river without a motor. A new, exciting challenge. Fortunately, we’d already traveled up Rio San Pedro and were no longer wary of its sinewy curves and shifting sandbars – it’s a relatively easy river to navigate.
We left Isla Santa Catalina shortly after the beginning of the flood tide with moderately gusty winds coming from the E/NE, ranging from 7 to 20 knots. We flew the working jib and at times were flying along at 5.5+ knots, other times we were barely creeping forward. Once we cleared Isla Santa Catalina, the SW swell was large, gently lifting us and depositing us in the trough, our sails keeping us stable. In the middle of the Gulf of Montijo the winds became more steady in the 6-8 knot range and we raised the Genoa. With the current aiding us we were, surprisingly, still making 3-4 knots. The wind was also shifting direction, allowing us to point closer and closer to the river entrance – no tacking required!
Panama is too good to us. She’s not really giving us any reasons to move on. In fact, I’m pretty sure Panama conspired with the Pacific Ocean to steal half of our prop so that we would never leave. Seriously, I love sailing here.
I was inspecting the charts, trying to figure out where we would likely drop the anchor once the tide shifted and started working against us. I figured we would be lucky to get past Isla Leones. As we turned the corner around Isla Leones, however, we could see a wind line approaching from the south. You’ve got to be kidding me, can we really be this fortunate? You see, we were heading almost due North in an area that usually gets consistent North winds. Tacking up a river is possible, but difficult, requiring constant attention to your sails and your position. Sailing downwind, upriver? Well, that’s just bliss.
Pretty soon we had 14-16 knots of wind directly at our back, Jeff at the tiller, the wind goddesses delighting in his playful maneuvering. We were hauling tail! Getting up to 6.6 knots at times! Gaining rapidly on Vagabundo, which had pulled way ahead early on. All the sudden it was like we were on Willy Wonka’s wild ride, with landmarks, Whaleback Rock, Isla Leones, Isla Perdomo, zipping past us at high speed. As we snaked up the river, the wind lessened, but continued to move with us. Clouds moved in to keep us cool. Small, puffy rain clouds sprinkled freshwater on us, rinsing our sails and offering refreshment. Even when the current shifted, we were still making 3 knots with the wind at our back.
Next thing we knew we were a mere 3 miles from Puerto Mutis. I expected to only make it half way to Mutis. SV Vagabundo hailed us on the radio “We just dropped anchor, where you at?”
“We’re only a couple of miles out and we still have a bit of wind pushing us. We’re making about 3 knots, so we’re hoping to be there in the next hour? We’ll see if the wind keeps up.”
“Good deal, when you make it here, you can find me at the cantina!”
Cold beer is always a good motivator. Unfortunately, I think I jinxed us because shortly after chatting with Colin, the wind, barely 5 knots now, kept us at a standstill in the current. Only 2 miles to go! 2 miles and we weren’t making any forward progress. We went into a huddle to discuss our potential options: 1) wait and see if the wind pipes up again, 2) try out the makeshift prop that Jeff made out of PVC and aluminum, 3) push ourselves with the dinghy, 4) throw out an anchor and wait until the tide shifts again, or 5) hail Vagabundo and have them come give us a tow. Most people would have probably just counted their blessings, threw an anchor overboard and waited…but we are stubborn people and wanted to see if we could make it.
1) We waited for 15 minutes for wind…to no avail. We started drifting backwards towards rocks. Time for a new approach.
2) Let’s put this makeshift prop to the test! It works! But, and there’s always a but, there was too much vibration to make it worth the potential damage to the engine.
3) Jeff hopped into the dinghy, poured in some juice and fired it up. I steered, trying to catch what little wind we had, zigzagging across the river so we wouldn’t be working directly against the current. We gained one mile! A slow, hard won mile!
The sun, fiery red, dipped beneath the hills and cast an orange glow on the full moon rising. Sweet rewards.
4) It was getting dark and the current was getting stronger. It was getting harder and harder to make forward progress. I scurried to the bow and dropped the anchor overboard in about 11 feet of water. Jeff killed the dinghy motor, we drifted backwards and the anchor set easily.
We were only one mile shy of the Puerto Mutis anchorage, the masthead lights taunting us. After dinner, and some evening time entertainment, we waited for the current to shift and the tide to rise. At about 11:45pm we hauled anchor, Jeff hopped in the dinghy, fired it up, and I grabbed the tiller. With the current helping us and our little dinghy giving us some power, we were making a whopping 3 knots! We finished up the final mile and anchored in about 10 feet (mud) next to Vagabundo and Mar de Luz. Jesse from Vagabundo was still awake, cruising around the anchorage in a kayak and popped over to say goodbye before he set off to Ecuador via faster means of travel (foot? car? bus? plane?). We’ll miss you Jesse! Ron from Mar de Luz popped out of his cabin to welcome us and wish us a Happy Valentine’s Day. We’ve been traveling with a supremely cool group of people these days.