Passage notes: Punta Amapala to Isla Meanguera, El Salvador

Log Book

• Port of departure: Punta Amapala, El Salvador
• Departure date and time: Thursday, November 7, 2013 at 12:30pm
• Port of arrival: Isla Meanguera, El Salvador
• Arrival date and time: Thursday, November 7, 2013 at 5:30pm
• Total travel time: 5 hours
• Miles traveled: 14.6 nm
• Engine hours: 1147.7 – 1148.1 – 0.4 hours
• Fuel consumption: 52.2 begin – 52 end – 0.2 gallons used
• Fuel economy: 73 mpg
• Weather: The forecast predicted 0 – 4 knots of wind from the N/NE in the Gulf of Fonseca on Thursday.
• Tides and currents: The flood tide on Thursday was from about 12:00n to 6:00pm, so it was helping us the entire time (very nice, very nice indeed).
• Navigation notes: Lots of pangas out fishing for the day. Each boat had a net strung between two floats marked by red, black or white flags and were generally standing watch over their nets. It was a bit of a maze, but totally navigable under sail.

When the temperature in the cabin started creeping towards 96 degrees at 11am, given the lack of ANY breeze, Jeff and I began to think we might not be sailing anywhere. To make matters worse, there were jellies in the water so “swimming” consisted of jumping in and then looking around frantically to make sure there weren’t any giant jellies oozing towards you.

We kind of lucked out though, because at around noon, just as the tide was shifting in our favor, a perfect side wind (from the S/SW) picked up. It wasn’t much, only around 7-8 knots, but it was absolutely enough to sail by (and just enough to keep our sweat chilled). Jeff hauled the anchor, I hoisted the main and the genoa and we sailed out of the anchorage bound for Isla Meanguera. It was a slow but perfect day – so nice to have such a short hop after so many long passages.

For the first two hours we were both on watch trying to spot all the nets strewn across the gulf and pick out a path that would allow us to sail through them. This required a bit of creativity as we weaved through the maze. “Okay, I think that black floaty is attached to that black floaty so we should turn more to port to avoid the net, then when we’re past the red floaty we can sheet in the sails to get a better angle on the island. What do you think?” “I don’t know, can you see what the red floaty’s attached to? Does it have a partner?” Really technical lingo here aboard Serenity.

The wind picked up at around 4:30 to 12-13 knots from the S/SW and we started flying. Rather than looping around Isla Meanguerita (the little island on the East side of Isla Meanguera) to our intended anchorage, we decided to sail through the narrow, half mile channel between the two islands.

“What a perfect day of sailing” I remarked, big smile, to Jeff. “It’s not over yet” he responded. “Don’t go jinxing us now.” Then sure enough…

Just as we were approaching the channel a boat full of fishermen screamed by, all of their eyes pinned on me. I waved, as a neighbor would, and they started whistling and hollering. Just as I turned from them, muttering insults under my breath, I heard a whiz bang snap and realized they had run right over the two hand lines trailing behind our boat. The driver checked his prop and I, in between steely glances, reeled in our lines to inspect the damage. Fortunately everything was in tact…except maybe their pride. Karma.

Being a woman on a boat in a sea culture dominated by men is a post for another day. For the most part everyone is very respectful, but sometimes it’s not awesome…especially when it’s hot out and I either have to dress like a seafaring nun or run the risk of attracting unwanted attention.

With that little episode behind us we approached the channel, the wind and current carrying us swiftly along, the sun preparing to set behind us casting it’s perfect warm glow on Isla Meanguera and her little sister. It was absolutely beautiful and fun and despite the fact that it took us 5 hours to travel 15 miles, we were both pleased.

We anchored just South of Punta el Panteon outside of the Hotel La Joya del Golfo in 22 feet making sure to leave plenty of space between us and an oyster farm directly south of us (a hazard to watch out for if anchoring at night). All was well aboard the good ship Serenity.